I had been waiting for the right moment to post a thank you to the crew over at @deadkooks and @swell for the surfboard give away they had a few months back that I won and couldn't believe people actually followed through with - which they did. As some of you know I had been out of the water because I had exostosis (surfer's ear) surgery done to my right ear. When the board arrived I was about 3 weeks into recovering and feeling like I had about 3 more weeks until I'd be back in the water and on my new board. Well, when that time came the pacific went flat and work ramped up, so the opportunity didn't present itself to try my new board until a few weeks ago and damn, was my time on the board a blast! I heading over to Rincon after work on what would be considered a so/so day there, but the tide was right and the cove was working. I caught a few waves and had one in particular that took me all the way to the freeway -- I hooted as I kicked out and man, it was so good to be back. The waves weren't epic at all that day but my time back in the water from a long recovery combined with a Rincon cove session sure made a mediocre session feel epic to me.
Thanks again @deadkooks and @swell for the board, you sure as heck made my post recovery surf a memorable one. #Yeww !