My most memorable dessert in New York was at the now closed WD-50 by the mad scientist that is Wylie Dufresne. I had two meals there, one much more successful than the other, and it was like eating in a laboratory. Trust me Heston and Ferran had nothing on this guy, his wacky creations made them look like your average home economics teacher!
The desserts incorporated less magic tricks and were all the better for that because they were stunning. The pastry chef was the supremely talented Malcolm Livingston II, who moved to Noma when WD-50 closed.
This dessert "S'Mores" married bitter chocolate ganache with graham crackers (like digestive biscuits), torched marshmallow/meringue ice cream on an edible stout beer stick and a blackcurrant & mezcal sauce. The mezcal was an inspired addition because its smoky notes enhanced those from toasting the marshmallow to fully bring out the smokiness one remembers from this classic campfire treat.
It was interesting to follow Livingston's career since moving to the mostly chocolate-free zone that is the Noma pastry kitchen. When faced with ice cream wrapped in sorrel in Copenhagen I couldn't help but reminisce about his earlier creations. They were amazing, bravo!