Happy international surfing day! 🏄♂️🌊🤙🏼
I made it out there today and I’m stoked to have a new home break that hardly anyone surfs. Most days it’s fun size but it gets bigger and more hairy I hear. Fortunately this windward side of the island gets pretty consistent wind swell throughout the year. Anyways, I’m probably supposed to say “surfing changed my life.” But I cant remember life before surfing. What I can remember is how for my whole life, every time I paddle out, no matter how poor the conditions, my worries and stresses are washed away with the salty waves. There is something truly magical about this sport/art. It’s the only one where the Earth is moving you along with her energy flow. I am grateful for the ocean and to be here at the birthplace of this my favorite thing ever. Shout out to all my crazy, quirky, AMAZING surf family out there. I love you all so much. Hope we get the share some waves soon! Aloooooooha! 💚🙏🏼🌊🏄♂️🌈🌋🤙🏼 .
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