That smile you get after a real really fun surf session. Captured perfectly after a very frustrating first session.
I paddled out on Saturday, crowded as usual, but fun waves coming in from #hurricaneflorence
I positioned myself as close to the jetty as possible, prime real estate for catching the outside lefts coming in off the sandbar, yet for some reason I couldn’t time the section correctly. It would kick up very fast so the drop was fun, but I couldn’t get that first pump to drive me down the line. I was getting frustrated so I exited the water. Walked back to @elizpaff And vented my frustration.
I sat on the beach, moping and upset, looking out at all the other dudes grabbing some fun waves. The swell was kicking up but so we’re the crowds. Just then I noticed another #jetty nearby that was going off, only problem was that the line up had 3x the amount of surfers. I figured I would take one more shot. Sit on the outside, closer to the rocks than anyone else and just hope that I could snag one.
I paddled out, dodging boards bodies, and egos as the dumpy beach break took hold of those not accustomed to bigger conditions. I make it out past the crowd, sit in the line up for twenty minutes - no luck. I was about ready to give up when I hear a gentleman next to me start whistling and yelling at me to go! I look back and see the set of the day kicking up behind me, just sucking up the all of the sand from the jetty and bowling up with a perfect shoulder. I paddle hard, kick my board around and air drop into it, almost lose my footing but the speed allows me to make the proper adjustment. My toes grip onto the #fuwax underneath my feet and I drive down the line as fast as I can. Three cut backs, five sections and an almost find out of the water moment on the final turn. The longest wave I have ever ridden in New York and the most fun I’ve had on a board in a while.
This photo sums it all up. #purejoy