Martha was the true heroine of this trip. We were up in the mountains within hours of her flight into Calgary. As the morning went on, she developed light altitude sickness: headache, tiredness, nausea. I must have turned thirty times to ask if she was okay. She always wanted to push ahead. Despite the discomfort, she never complained. Her spirit never flagged. The strength of will it took to hike up to a glacier in that condition is impressive. Thankfully, when we woke early Monday morning, her sickness was gone - which brightened the rest of our trip even more. We had coffee and oatmeal before breaking camp and heading back down the trail. Both of us were exhausted by the end, but the accomplishment was worth the struggle. It made for one of the best weekends in months.