THIS IS OUR UTOPIA
Fashion is by essence looking for newness, yet designers are constantly interested in a better understanding of the past. Sometimes imagining in it. For his first @Azzaro_official, @MaximeSimoens walked the fine line of edge and heritage. Loris Azzaro, a science-po student turned designer, born to Italian parents in 1933 in Tunisia, left his Toulouse for Paris in 1962 to go on dressing the Sophia Loren, Raquel Welch, Marisa Berenson, Claudia Cardinale and Isabelle Adjani. Why? 1960's fun party clothes maestro. Despite his fame, Mr. Azzaro never designed haute couture clothing and was not a member of the elite Chambre Syndicale. Mr. Simoens, mentored by @JCdeCastelbajac, delighted backstage for his protégé's performance, graduated top of his class and apprenticed at Elie Saab, John Galliano for Dior and Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga. Tonight, the result was a collection of power, ambition, casual, and attitudes of quietly loud astonishing felinity. At many moments the clothes captured the precise sense one modern #MireilleDarc, incarnée by @NoelCapri amongst others, has about the world. When she is in a city for a dinner or in a rush for a gala, when she reads the headlines or financial statements, when she drives to pitch a venture, when she sets out, for her joie, on a jet for the weekend. It is as though #MaximeSimoens senses of structured architecture and elaborated graphism had somehow reached #LorisAzzaro on a sensibility calibrated very fine like the Robe à Trois Anneaux reversed in its back. 2017 is the new 1967. "Je sais comment les femmes rêvent secrètement de s'habiller" claimed Loris. We can trust Maxime to know how to too because he just does. Not turning back on chic, yet dressing down hip into a Parisian's street-smart wardrobe, his women are the cool, appealing and wild not-so-princesses. They scream "This is our utopia"
#ALESSANDROBERGA | L'ÉDITOR
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