"...We stopped at Cape St Francis, where I knew there was seven miles of undiscovered surf there. I got up to check it out at 5am, but there was nothing. By 9am, the tide had come in, and the further I walked into this cove the better the waves got. Every set was perfect. I wasn’t keen to paddle out by myself, with all the sharks, but I thought, fuck it. I took the third wave of the set, and just rode and rode and rode. Bruce and the other guys were running along the beach with the camera gear. Before it petered out, I insisted that Bruce ride one, too. The feeling was incredible..."
Part of the interview with Mike Hynson for The Guardian. December 2017