February 25th, 2016 was a special day; the peak of the #brockswell, one of the better days SD has seen in a stretch. Enough energy pulsing through the Northeast Pacific to thin the herd; only familiar faces out that morning. Less jockeying for position and aggressive energy; and more a shared sense of stoke and mutual respect. It was also the day I befriended @theoceanandwaves, who took these shots. The first is his entry for the @stab Full Frame Competition.
From his post: "This was taken February 25th, 2016, at #blacksbeach. It was the day @john_john_florence won the Eddie, the day of the #brockswell. Since becoming a Professional Photographer living in San Diego, I’ve never seen a larger day. It still feels surreal, it feels like that day was given to me by someone. I was the only photographer who managed to get down to the sand and hike midway up the cliffs. A massive high tide prevented the other local surf photographers from getting down there. I was ready for it and woke up at 2am to hike down before the tide took away the path. Only 15 guys paddled out, who have all become friends since. Everyone’s board broke, everyone went through some brutal breath holds. For the past 2 years I’ve been praying for another day like this. Counting down he moments before I get so see something like this again. This is a part of San Diego history. The sheer amount of messages the I get when I post photos from this day speaks for itself, this is engrained in the minds of our locals. #StabFullFrame #FeelsLikeFreedom @stab @OneillUSA"
The second image is of our buddy and local charger @dbock81. In case you're curious... he made it.
A day we'll not forget.
#SurfNVS #NakedVikingSurf #SanDiego #winterswell #elnino2016 #westcoast #california #stormsurf #longperiodswell #bigwaves