April 19, 2018, @madskates and I flew to the Kichatna Spires with high hopes of climbing in the surreal landscape of granite monoliths. Among the ice, rock, and glaciers of the frozen world. The weather was perfect when we flew in, crystal skies with crisp air. We immediately explored our surroundings and saw potential in every direction (1. E Face of Kichatna Spire). We woke the next morning to the soft pitter patter of snow bouncing off the tent fabric, we settled into the storm. The clouds split, opening the skies for the first time in thirteen days. We ran uphill to a small objective on Avalanche Prong. (2. Madison approaching). The storm closed in once more and we were consumed. Madison dug his way upward to the base of an icy chimney. (Photo 3) the spindrift flowed with alarming frequency (video 4) and after a two hour lead with inadequate protection and rotten ice squeezing my way upward, fending off the suffocating spindrift ice turned to snow covered blank slabs. The storm was relentless and we retreated. (5. The storm in full force). We were beat down and motivation dwindled as we were tent bound indefinitely. Our eyes stained yellow from the nylon of the tent, soaked layers, laying in puddles and Joy Division (6. Turn the sound up) for weeks on end. I snapped my shovel from all the stress of digging, we shredded our cook tent through one of the worst days of the storm. And finally on our twentieth day the skies cleared enough for our retreat to talkeetna.
@smartwool @thenorthface #gofarfeelgood #neverstopexploring #alaska #denalinationalpark #neverendingstorm #kichatna #alpine #climbing #alpineclimbing #spindrift #storm #iceclimbing #glaciers #bigwalls #mountains