Meanwhile in Kathmandu. It's Dashain, the longest and most auspicious festival in Nepal. We were lucky enough to eat a traditional meal with Nepali friends in their home. Tonight, the 'dark night', the sacrifices begin and the beasts will howl in Durbar Square. But for now the fairy lights are strung across the tangled mass of electrical wires and this is the scene at our local roundabout in Chhetrapati.