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Ooh fancy logo @sainsmart finally done peeling acrylic and today is all about mechanical assembly of the instatep A8 printer.

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Oh dear my octopus seems to have broken a socket. Got some advice from @disruptityourself on some adhesives to try for parts that take more stress like ball and socket joints. If all else fails I suppose I can reprint the body but that will be a last resort.

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Some fresh led rolls these ones being ws2811 a 12v strip utilizing the same code as neopixels but on a different strip style. I'm going to attach all these LEDs to my desk and leave it on the adafruit gradient here for now because it's really calm

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Terrible dissapointment having this print fail. I was in 22 hours and nearly to the top of the first link. I will have to be more selective on which parts of this project get pva supports. Having tried these links in abs on the monoprice I believe they can do it, I will need to reprint the dragons head though with pva again to capture the difficult details.

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Trying to get good ball joints is a difficult undertaking. The prints require good tolerances and usually require supports which is all the more difficult to get a good fit. I'm going to test out pva supports for better fits on ball joint prints.

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Here is the process and timing of the dissolving of pva from prints. The pva interface layer is bound by pla supports and the print meaning limited room for water to make contact with the pva, at one point when pva becomes loose the supports can be carefully pulled away and the rest of the pva dissolved off the part. Total time was about two hours of dissolving and ten hours of printing. This same part taking 4 hours to print in all abs. I broke the jaw in one place assembling the small ball joints and will have to super glue it back together.

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A ball jointed sea serpent head this time printed with a pva interference layer and it's about to go in for dissolving! Let's see how well high detail models do with these supports.

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Fresh out of the box it's the @sainsmart A8. Now to peel acrylic for a while hahahaha. Ready to test out their Anet model and have a fresh canvas for modifications.

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Darth maul free of his supports! Definitely a model that I will do on mmu with soluble supports in the future it's so fragile this is one of those prints I always break somewhere and have to glue back together. But I'm always hunting for the best support settings to get prints that look clean like this against most odds.

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From left to right it's full pva supports, pva interface layer, and a normal old benchy. Benchies with supports were both printed upside down and with 100% supports. The interface layer worked to save on pva but with cutting up the pla support layers to get them out of the cabin lead to a few marks on the print but it looks way better than pla supports would have left it.

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3dbenchy printed upside down with @sainsmart pva supports on the freshly rebuilt prusa mk2 mmu. Going to dissolve the interface layer and see how simply supports can be removed from spaces like within the cabin and chimney.

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Let's see what's behind curtain number two. And it's Darth Maul! Printed in @xperland_3d_filament red pla in remarkable detail now to very carefully remove Darth from his supports.

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Repost @bradyhoover_designs Gonna finally get my tickets to the last Jedi for today! Gotta learn what these PORGs are all about

Printed in abs on the monoprice select mini this print is one of the smoothest and finishes I've gotten yet.

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#thelastjedi
#rogueone
#porg
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Head of the articulated serpent on thingiverse! Another ball jointed amphibian for my collection. Wonderfully warp free printing in ABS using a monoprice in a hacked together enclosure

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Fresh rebuild on the hotend for the mmu prusa. So many different variables for the prusa it is difficult to say any one part is the problem, so everything from the extruder down to the nozzle have been torn apart and inspected. It's been about a month but I'm significantly more familiar with mmu now.

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Well it was a worthy endeavor. The mosfets have allowed through some more amperage from the supply but still is triggering low voltage events on the control board when the heater is on and motors are engaged. As well as that the bed is not heating so I will need to check wiring for it. If I switch the hotend to an independent power supply from the control board it should be able to move motors and heat without the two interfering.

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Amid this dangerous mess of temporary printer connections is a 12v 30A power supply wired to a duet wifi board with two mosfets one for heatbed and one for hotend. This should test using a switching power source with a printer requiring more than the 15A limit for current passing through. Previously I received low voltage warnings on the board when heating which I believe was due to too high of a current draw. Now the board only supplies motor power, leaving the burden of powering to the upgraded supply.

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