Basque lunch in Bakersfield at the Noriega Hotel. You're seated at long communal dining tables and they just bring out the food — today was clam chowder in big bowls, bread, salad, tomato salsa, beans, potato salad. Little plates of blue cheese. Then fried cod, and brisket. Lots of bottles of chilled red wine set out with screw tops, no labels. $17. Everything is served family-style and there is only one seating, at 12 noon sharp. And we sat next to two Basque immigrants living in Bakersfield. It was a good lunch.