Instagram post by @doctor_mysterio_ Doctor Mysterio

Here's another thing that I wanted to showcase a little bit more in depth and it's the differences between the Chris Kerr crombie coats.
Many people believe that all Capaldi Coats are made the exact same way. In a way that is indeed correct but the minor differences do make the deal in the end.
Starting with the first picture: as you can see, the Camel Hair coats lapels are cut with a slight curve whereas the Velvet coat has a straight cut lapel similar to the S8 coat.
The Camel Hair was being cut more "forgiving" and "baggy" so it could be used with the many layer outfits (Zygon Invasion, before the flood etc. To name a few) whereas the Velvet coats were supposed to be worn with the more formal looks and use a less forgiving and exact fit to mirror Peter's Series 8 look with a velvet twist.
Heading to the second picture, we have both sleeves compared side by side and here you can see that the Camel Hair sleeve is cut shorter and wider than the longer and slimmer velvet sleeve.

Now heading to internal structure and length.
During one of my many fittings at Chris Kerr's shop in Soho, he mentioned that the velvet coats are 1,5 inches longer than the camel hair. Another thing he showed me was the differences in internal structure and canvassing.
The Camel Hair uses a short front only canvassing that only covers the chest down to the first front button to give the coat the necessary baggy look and flair. The canvas was sealed with a fleece cover before the lining was put in place.

The Velvet coats however use a front only canvassing that covers the entire front of the coat down to the bottom. It was sealed with a moleskin cover before the lining was put in place.

All coats came with NO shoulder pads to allow Peter the mobility he required for the job but I realised that if I spend about 2000£ for a coat, then it should last a little longer so I decided (much to Kerr's approval) to add a additional shoulder padding to my coats.
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#doctorwho #screenaccurate #twelfthdoctorcosplay #twelfthdoctor #petercapaldi #harrisonsofedinburgh #tailor #bespoketailoring #bbc #soho #sohostyle #luxuryfabric #bespokeclothing #hollandandsherry

4 Comments

  • 3w ago thegallifreyanwhovian thegallifreyanwhovian

    I'm glad you mentioned the "curved" look on the camelhair (I thought I was seeing things 😂).

  • 3w ago nathan_thefedorable.inc nathan_thefedorable.inc

    So the pads are a necessity for general wear? That I did not know.

  • 3w ago doctor_mysterio_ doctor_mysterio_

    @nathan_thefedorable.inc not having shoulder padding makes the coat sack down a bit more and ruins the shape over time... The coats that Peter wears are theatrical coats means that they aren't intended to be worn for the whole day. Normal overcoats have a slight padding to give more structure to it (most famously the Sherlock overcoat)

  • 3w ago nathan_thefedorable.inc nathan_thefedorable.inc

    @doctor_mysterio_ Ah, okay. Makes sense. I'll keep that in mind for whenever I get around to any of the coats. Thanks for the info.

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