Instagram post by @behindthechair_com

#btcwhatwouldyoudo? Please keep me anonymous. I am kind of embarrassed to say, but I'm a old time beautician and using some old fashioned type ways of doing color. I am still doing my color and highlights separately. Does anyone else still do this? I've noticed that most stylists are doing color and highlights at the same time? I've always found it difficult to do both together, particularly if you are trying to cover gray, additionally what if your foils need rinsing before the retouch is processed?  It's certainly messy too, and often prevents getting a clean clear color down at the scalp. I know many people do it because it is faster for the client, but I've always believed that you'll get superior results if you do them separately. It's often hard while shampooing-off the color, from muddying-up the beautiful highlights that you've created too, but have I been wrong all this time? Clients are requesting color appointments like this now. Any advice for how I can learn to do this the right way? Do I apply color in between foils or highlight over the color? Any advice would be very helpful, I work in a small old fashioned beauty salon and everyone else does them seprately as well. Thank-you so much. #behindthechair #hairstylist #hairsalon


  • 52w ago __emilynm __emilynm

    I like to foil first & secure the foil with the ends out if they are already light allowing me to be able to include them in the foil with a weaker bleach after color is applied. I fold my foil with part of the foil under my rat tail rather then over & that piece is refolded down to the scalp after to prevent bleeding at the scalp. If you'd like to see this technique you're welcome to dm me & I'll try to get a video for you. It's been the biggest help allowing my highlights to be very close to the scalp without slipping throughout my color application after foiling. Also practice on a mannequin using different volume developers to even out your lifting of foils while color processes. I also like applying with a color bottle when applying between foils. You can also place cotton between foils to prevent bleeding as you're getting started. I don't really feel like applying bleach over a color application gives me enough control in placement of weaving foils & they end up too chunky for what my client base desires. Try both ways on a mannequin before you decide.

  • 52w ago lorimarissa_stylist lorimarissa_stylist

    I've had this exact same scenario I was taught in beauty school (redken brand) high lights in foils then color in between foils as you go well this whole time I've been doing that... well I've started at a new salon and the girls are like try this method instead it's faster soo I have yet to try it I saw another girl do it and the color she was using was warm soo I'm sure the highlights end up being warm tones even if you wash with cold water..

  • 52w ago lex.coulter lex.coulter

    I live in a retirement town and do a lot of gray coverage. Usually, I use 10vol as my developer with my lightener so it can process for 30 minutes with color on their roots. If you need to adjust toward the top and switch to 20vol I will do that as well so everything lightens evenly. Make sure you cover the roots well with product and I usually "smudge" the product around the hairline to work the color in the stubborn gray in that area. I then rise all over first and then pull the foils out to prevent bleeding. Ive never had a problem doing it this way, I just am aware of my developers to help control my time from how long I foil to how long it needs to process to cover gray.

  • 52w ago marnimakeup_hair marnimakeup_hair

    I do it at the same time and my highlights are rarely affected. I put it a foil then the next section, I'll apply the base and so on. It saves everyone time and I'm able to serve more clients. I don't however, put bleach over color nor do I go back in with color after I've foiled. I just have run into issues when I do that .

  • 52w ago kimwagnerhair kimwagnerhair

    What about root touch up and balayage for highlights. I do this quite often for clients with gray. I apply my root color first, then go in and paint on the lightener. I use a clay based, self encapsulating lightener, so no cotton or Saran Wrap needed. The results are gorgeous! If you don't have experience with balayage/free-hand painting, I would highly recommend you take some classes. There are so many great educational options out there! Good luck!

  • 52w ago life_just_is_words_n_travels life_just_is_words_n_travels

    @behindthechair_com I see your posts and often read the comments of others and I felt compelled to tell you what amazing followers you have. The respectful manner in which they respond to questions is just beautiful and helpful so it would seem, now I am not a hairdresser but Im grandmother who knows polite when I see it and this page of yours brings me to tears no trolls just lovely people sharing their knowledge. Bravo to you all. Hope you dont mind me saying.🌹🌹🌹

  • 52w ago glambyrachael glambyrachael

    I do them At the same time and alwayssssss add TCA drops to my color. It speeds the processing time up to only 10-15 minutes. That way you will be okay regardless.

  • 52w ago glambyrachael glambyrachael

    So, if someone wanted a partial foil and a base color... I would foil their hair. Then go in between foils and then hair underneath that I didn't foil with my base. I always add the TCA drops. That way,

  • 52w ago torybe torybe

    I learned from Beth Minardi to put foils in then apply color to roots. Works great for me, even those with grey hair.

  • 52w ago mrs425468 mrs425468

    Congratulations!! Constant improvements of skills brings all of us up!

  • 52w ago robertrsell robertrsell

    You foil as usual just making sure the highlight development time is well after the base color time. I get better grey coverage and depth from demi then I ever get from permanent. If you are worried about color toning your highlights, get it off quicker. I use the color in the hair for toner by leaving a little in the hair after rinsing. Add shampoo and soapcap the head quick.

  • 52w ago robertrsell robertrsell

    Demis process 20-25. Permanent 45. Most highlights take longer than a demi processes and you just leave it on until highlights are ready.

  • 52w ago the_solo_stylist the_solo_stylist

    If I know that I'm doing foils and base color at the same time, I keep the developer for the foils at 20vol. Obv I don't use heat, so by the time the base color is ready, the foils are perfect and then I can rinse everything out at the same time.

  • 52w ago voguishhairandbeauty.tania voguishhairandbeauty.tania

    @glambyrachael what is TCA drops? :)

  • 52w ago voguishhairandbeauty.tania voguishhairandbeauty.tania

    I always do foils first. I tend not to go with a too strong volume developer so that you have enough time for the color application and processing. You'll get it super fast and it'll be a blast to do it that way once you get. Where I'm from they used to do even long hair with cap highlights. Also a more primitive way. I just found it causes more breakage. Love foiling and coloring in one process. 🤗

  • 52w ago kniveschaohair kniveschaohair

    I always like to do it together unless it's a big foil job/colour correction. I like to do the foils first and root colour inbetween.

  • 52w ago cuttingitstraight cuttingitstraight

    @robertrsell what colour do you use to get better grey coverage from a demi over permanent?

  • 52w ago veralucile_ veralucile_

    I too have been doing hair a long time ( Stone Age ). There are many ways to achieve beautiful color no need to box ur self into ANY one method. Learn to apply your foils and color together it's certainly faster and can be beneficial when you're just doing a spot foil and a root touch up. You can rinse the regrowth before you remove the foil's if you want to keep the highlights completely free of color. But your way is also good just depends on what your working with and what you're trying to achieve. Always learning awesome way to stay in the game !😄

  • 52w ago robertrsell robertrsell

    @cuttingitstraight matrix colorsync (with heat)

  • 52w ago debbietruax debbietruax

    👏 Bravo to all the stylists ,for the encouragement and tips. I ❤️ love this page and the positivity!!

  • 52w ago ashleigh_curls_cut_colour ashleigh_curls_cut_colour

    I do roots and then put the foils on, using an expensive bleach. And then I tone. One lady she is base 6N bit grey. So i apply roots and then I apply to 30vol foils through. Scattered I can put them in 15mins. So 30mins for foils and 45mins for root colour xx

  • 52w ago t.dudeck t.dudeck

    I have nearly always done foils first. There are times when I've learned doing colour first was best, but that is client specific. To keep the processing time similar I simply adjust the developer based on what the desired end results are. I also start at the back where the hair is less damaged and simply refresh my lightener frequently to keep it from diminishing in power. I also rinse the colour first and then pull the foils to keep the colour off the highlights.

  • 52w ago felishafel felishafel

    I do roots and highlights as I go. in between each foil at same time I'll paint roots on and I'll go slightly over the face framing with color to make sure it's covered it's saves time but it's soemthing u will be faster as u go and by the time ur done with foils ur roots have been processing 15-20 min. If I'm worried it will mud. like a red color abd blonde hilight I'll rinse the bleach a d red out one at a time back to front and it won't mix. good luck

  • 52w ago chris_nicole_ chris_nicole_

    You keep doing what works. I do both ways and it depends on gray coverage, etc. Do what works best.

  • 52w ago bev.mccarthy bev.mccarthy

    I'm an old timer too 38 yrs. I do all 3 methods. The end result you desire dictates the means. There is so much info online.Watch and learn and push your comfort zone. It's exciting times in hair!

  • 52w ago flojointexas flojointexas

    You do you! But.....if you want a subtle highlight...put on color...then just lift on in foils over will eat through that color! Try it on a friend! A boss of mine showed me YEARS AGO... but only started a few years back! I have been gray since I was 19 and HATE seeing that growth!

  • 52w ago murcolthomson murcolthomson

    @glambyrachael what is tca

  • 52w ago kkzstyles kkzstyles

    I do my color retouch and then highlight over the color. That way you never miss a grey hair.

  • 52w ago jlbrewr16 jlbrewr16

    I do roots first then put my foils in. I do them separately if I have a client with more than 25% gray. That's my personal preference though. If you're most comfortable doing them separately, than that's what you should continue doing. Practice the other technique on a mannequin, a family member, friend or another stylist.

  • 52w ago hairymollz hairymollz

    Gray coverage I do retouch first and then foils or balayage if I'm depositing color for the retouch without gray i tend to do foils first and then do retouch...depends on the hair but it's sooo much easier to do and less time. I Tone 90% of blonde anyway so if the retouch is a slightly different tone it all blends in the end.

  • 52w ago lm_hairandbeauty_ lm_hairandbeauty_

    I always do the highlights first then colour inbetween 👐 hope this helps 💖

  • 52w ago alejandrajimsalon alejandrajimsalon

    I do foils first and then color inbetween. I saved time not only for my clients ..for me too for my next appointment. I think you should practice this technique and improve every day. Good luck! 😉

  • 52w ago peaches2287 peaches2287

    I start in the back of the head it depends if they want a whole head of highlights or not if they don't i will put the base color on the back (peakaboo) then i will put a foil over that to protect the mixing of my colors then i will foil either 10vol or 20vol depending on the length and thickness of the hair so the back foils do not over process or you can use oaplex or redken ph bonder mixed in with your bleach and color this helps with breakage. So i will foil bleach then i will foil base, bleach then base. When i am done foiling i will go back through the whole head and put my base color in between all foils to make sure its fully saturated.

  • 52w ago amystickler_hairstylist amystickler_hairstylist

    That's why I switched to igora 10 min color. I color then foil. I used to do together but Its hard lifting my dark clients light enough. Plus I do hi lights and lowlights with demi, so I don't feel I get good coverage of grey foiling first with demi. But I'm open to suggestions.

  • 52w ago nessa_reta nessa_reta

    I do roots first for gray coverage and start front going all the hair is up I start my highlights in back and continue to the front with higher development it looks messy because your sections all colored get towel wipe your hands so offen not bad I love it.

  • 52w ago hairstyles_by_jane hairstyles_by_jane

    First roots, then highlights then the rest of the hair. I like to do it separate to though. And if I'm afraid the highlights need less time I use a lesser volume. 👍

  • 52w ago shearelegancesalonpics shearelegancesalonpics

    Curious as to why you feel embarrassed? Results speak for themselves. If you are getting great results and your clients are happy then you're good. Learn something new because you want to be better but not because you feel old fashion. And after 20 years behind the chair I do it both ways depending on the client.

  • 52w ago lkw_hair lkw_hair

    I do the base first if it is a level 7-9 then I weave my section, place my foil, scrape the excess color off with the back of my comb, and then paint the section with bleach. If it's a level 4-6 I highlight first with a lower volume- if your scared try a bond enforcer like BB3, then I paint the base on. If you put bleach on top of a level 4-6 it will be warm. It's not so bad!!You'll get it 😘

  • 52w ago princesskirkman princesskirkman

    I do it separately as well. Cutting corners on time shows in the final result. If they want it perfect they " do the time"

  • 52w ago _hollyreese_ _hollyreese_

    I do foils and then color in between, if you do it the other way around you color the bleach and there will be different color splotches at the roots.

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