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Chris Allen  Going through decades of old Surf mags and posting some cool pages, as well as an occasional video clip


Larry Bertlemann
Photo by Steve Wilkings

Marvin Foster
Pipeline, 1988
Photo by Brian Bielmann

Phil Edwards at Wayne Shafer’s on Beach Road, February 1982. This was one of Phil’s rare, like once a year, surf appearances; by then he was dropping out. I just happened to catch him. Phil was so graceful - even on a nothing wave you can see it in his body language, his read of the section and his cocking the board for a move of some sort. I think Phil’s uniqueness stemmed from the fact that even while he pulled off radical things on waves, as a seaman he understood and flowed with the ocean rather than trying to overcome it. Although he rarely, if ever, rides waves on a surfboard these days, he has other ways of expressing his “surfer” self. Still, it troubles us when someone as great as Phil walks away from something we’re still obsessed with. My guess is that his standards are so high that he just isn’t comfortable with anything less. For Phil, it is way cleaner to let his peak be his statement and move on.” Photo & words by Mickey Muñoz in Surfer’s Journal

John Severson
Huntington Beach , 1956
Posing in the style of the “old-time” surfers. Severson said that in a flash, twenty years would be gone and this would be an old-timer in his youth. “We didn’t know about smog in the early 50s, it wasn’t even named yet, and huge kelp beds blanketed the Southern California coast, keeping waters glassy even through moderate winds. The seals barked a lot. Kelp cutters chomped away but we didn’t know what was going on. We had no ecological axes to grind. All was pretty on course in my little town. The early 50s brought an end to our junk board parade. My first board was a hollowed out redwood with a plywood deck. It had a plug in the rear, and every few waves I had to drain it. The water rush from end to end would reach a point where it was a sure wipeout and swim. That’s when it got drained. There were some interesting rides surfing to the water slosh limits. A 13 foot, 120 pounder passed through my surfboard scene around ‘51. Bought for two dollars, I painted it and sold it for four. My customer wanted to see how it worked so I surfed it, hoping the paint would dry on contact with the water. I got a couple of heavy rides, made the sale, and went home covered with blue paint. Meanwhile, the new owner couldn’t carry the board, and everyone had gathered to watch him drag and wrestle the monster up the pier stairs. Halfway up, a bigger fellow offered him eight dollars for the board, giving him an outrageous profit, and the pier gang a great laugh. Then, 10‘6“ all balsa Malibu “chips” shaped by Joe Quigg came into our lives. So light (50 pounds?) and tippy we could hardly stay on at first. But once we got control we could see that the ultimate had been reached.“ – John Severson

Walt Phillips
Walt started the ‘60s magazine Surfing Illustrated and made surf movies like Dr. Strangesurf, Psych Out, Once Upon A Wave. A big wave rider, he had a horrible wipeout and ended up with a plate in his head. Still going strong and living in Mexico I think.

Mark Cunningham
“Gerry Lopez often said they should clear the water on a vintage day at Pipeline at least once a winter, just to give Cunningham his due. “Let him have the place to himself,” said Gerry. “And everybody could watch.” With Cunningham, it’s never too late. As a lifeguard and bodysurfer, he is a timeless presence at the world’s most famous break. He’s been saving lives and preventing catastrophes since 1976, and he has shared the lineup with everyone from Butch Van Artsdalen to Shawn Briley. Rail-thin at 6’4” and 170 pounds - then, now and forever - he is Cunningham, the one constant over the years. To the North Shore’s general populace, his is Pipeline.” - Bruce Jenkins in Surfer’s Journal, 1994
“I had countless sessions out there that nobody even knows about. Early morning , late evening, in the middle of a thunderstorm, when everyone else was huddled around their cocoa and color TV, I’d have big, wild-ass Pipeline with lightning goin’ off, just loving it to death.” Mark Cunningham
Photo by Jack McCoy

Donald Takayama & Joel Tudor from On Safari To Stay, 1991
Directed by Chris Ahrens, DP by Greg Weaver
@surfboardsbydonaldtakayama @joeljitsu

Keith Paull, Bobby Brown & Midget Farrelly in The Hot Generation by Paul Witzig, 1967

Dale Dahlin
Photo by Jeff Divine

Ilima Kalama
Huntington Beach, 1962
Photo by John Severson

Rusty Miller
Moonlight Beach, 1965

Kemp Aaberg
1. Makaha by Don James, ‘63
2 & 3. Rincon frame grabs from Surf Safari by John Severson, ‘59
4. Rincon by Bill Parr, ‘90s
5. Waimea Bay with Dick Brewer (left) by Ron Church, ‘61
6. Pupukea, frame grab from Slippery When Wet by Bruce Brown, ‘58
7. With Tom Blake, ‘67
8. Rincon by John Severson
“From the time he started surfing at 16 until he was 34, Kemp Aaberg succeeded in creating for himself a life of continuous surf, adventure, travel and personal exploration. It was his own 18-year version of Endless Summer. Only for Kemp Aaberg it was no movie, no scripted fantasy shot through a viewfinder. It was real.” - Russ Spencer
On Blake: “...he taught me that you can live in a van and still be a well-dressed man. He lived in that car... I actually talked to him off and on for days. He lived in the Zuma Beach parking lot there. Like the swallows come back to Capistrano? Every summer for a few years he’d show up.... the thing I remember the most was an incredible sense of purity and sincerity. Not many flares. He didn’t eat a whole lot. He had a real strong belief in nature and God and his life cycle. He saw himself as a guy who wanted to live as purely and as strongly as he possibly could. And he knew he was going to where everybody else is. That was foremost in his mind all the time.” - from Jeff Divine interview

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