miles_adamson miles_adamson

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Miles Adamson  100% Killabee approved

Last year in bishop we had awful conditions. Several days of the trip were lost to snow or sandstorms. Most days we did climb were still too cold, like below 5 degrees after windchill.

On most of my attempts on Ambrosia, my fingers were numbed out cold for the hard move after the hueco. The weather looks MUCH better right now. Hopefully it holds up for my trip which is coming up so fast, leaving on Dec 22.

I know now that I trained crimps too much and endurance too little. I've been training super hard lately, this year I think it will come together.
Video @eric.sethna

Looking through photos of the Red Rock trip, I realized I forgot about this disgusting open project to the right of Wet Dream.
It starts on an extremely painful left hand fingerlock and right hand crimp. Then the only move that matters is a dunk to another finglerlock. I blew it on the top out which is probably only V4... I didn't really know where I was going and slipped right off. Never had the energy to stick the dunk again for that juicy FA. I was going to name it Slam Bam Fingerjam, and it's V12 or V13.

The skin that I mangled from the left hand start hold still hasn't fully healed. To use the hold I put my pointer and ring finger in as deep as I could, then forced my middle finger in on top to lock everything in place.

Rootin Tootin Cowboy Shootin - V13.
This is climb 98 in the First Creek area. It is listed as a highball project so this is probably a first ascent! I couldn't find any online content from Nalle or others on the climb.

The sequence is strangely similar to the crux of Disbelief at Acephale. I've been training this exact move for months. Lock off to a high left handed gaston, then do a move that makes no sense. I stabbed to another gaston up high with only my thumb, and mashed my pointer finger in it once I stuck it. Getting the foot up was also brutal. The top out from there is still about V6.
While I think it's one of the hardest boulders I've done, I also sent it really fast. So I'm not sure about the V13 grade but I think it's right.

Video @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

Topping out Blockwall - V3, one of my favourites from the trip. Today I chalked up a highball project near The Nest and will try to bust it out on the last day of our trip.

Photo @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

Fountainhead - V9

Matt and I are trashed. This was day 6 climbing in a row. Tomorrow we will "rest" and hike to First Creek boulders to explore the area. The guidebook lists several highball projects so I will probably rappel down something and prep a new line for saturday.

I had heard people had blown it off the Meadowlark Lemon slab and I thought maybe I should try it once. But was like nahhhh I'll be fine. I almost blew it on every move to the lip but managed a send of the stand start.
Even though the left hand edge was chipped it's still pretty damn hard. Maybe still V13, not sure. The sit won't go this trip, not enough time.

Video @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

Edit: Turns out this was not an FA and is named "Blockwall." Still the line is incredible, really nice seams and pockets the whole way. Had a blast on it.

Video @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

I have done the FA of the Northeast Arete on the Plumbers Crack boulder. It was V6 from a sit start, and ends with really airy slab. I'm naming it "Hardest Gym in the Problem." It is about 35ft tall, and for sure one of the boldest highballs at Kraft.

Thanks to @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e for the video, he did the 2nd ascent right after.

Last night after the car fiasco we still got out to Kraft for an evening session. Got the V10 "Seek and Destroy" second try.
Afterwards I inspected a TR project on the Plumbers Crack boulder and it looks like I can do it as a highball. I'll try that today

The last time I got my car repaired for desert related injuries, the guy said "you should not offroad in the desert with a chevy cobalt." Here is @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e trying to dig out my car with part of my broken car jack. While trying to get to Black Velvet Canyon, we must have been on the wrong dirt road and got stuck twice. The first time we raised the car with the car jack and removed the rock we were bottomed out on.

The second time the car jack was weighted to the side and broke. We then used its parts to try to dig out the wheel. After about 2 hours the car wheel had dug itself so deep that the undercarriage also bottomed out. Matt tied my climbing rope to the axel and I slung a boulder nearby. With a jumar pully and gri gri we probably got about 1000lbs of tension on the thing. That got the car out and we went back to Kraft for the day.

Matt and I drove the entire way overnight, leaving Edmonton at noon and getting to Vegas at 1130am. We only had car naps for a couple hours at a time, but still went to climb after lunch.

Even being tired I got a nice flash of this V9 highball arete called "Fear of a Black Hat"
Photo @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

Red Rockssssssss

Leaving today at noon with @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e and returning on the 18th. Hoping to try both The Nest and Meadowlark Lemon. Or maybe just all the classics, I haven't even been to Red Rocks before.

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