miles_adamson miles_adamson

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Miles Adamson  Check out my Ambrosia video!

Ambrosia video is now up! Link is in my bio. Thanks so much to @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e for the top-down footage. It's definitely an angle people haven't seen before on this climb, and it looks awesome.

Along with the video I have finish my android training app!!! I spent several months of work on this thing. I made a database of 100 training exercises, then wrote an algorithm to build a personalized training program for anyone. It also serves as a logbook, and timer + set/rep counter. It's $2.30 on google play store. The link to the app is in the description to the youtube video.

Sent! Ambrosia went very smoothly after working it on TR. I felt amazing, got it first try of the day. The heel hook beta is a breeze compared to the high left foot method. More people will probably repeat it that way in the future.

I really wanted to push myself with the ground up style on a famous route. The move above the hueco was far harder than it looks in videos. That made me wonder if higher moves were harder than I thought too. They actually were too, I thought the top holds were edges with some bite but they were mostly slopey features.

The decision to bail on that was hard because it was basically all I trained for. But I couldn't have realistically tried it more without getting hurt. I took around 10 falls total (across both trips) from above the hueco. It fuckin hurts the knees even with 4 layers of pads.

Hopefully this new heel hook beta will help @rockninja_8a do the first(?) ground up ascent. Do not underestimate the top sequence. Best of luck man thanks for the psyche and pads!!
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This is a screenshot from the video @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e took. I'll edit it all together when I get home, we leave tomorrow morning.

I tried Ambrosia for the 3rd session this trip, and got shut down by the same move above the hueco. After falling twice today with no gains I figured the ground up style was not happening. My knees already hurt a bit.

I top roped the line and easily found a much more secure way to do the move. I don't think I would have ever figured out this new sequence ground up. One of the moves at the top I also do differently from those in videos. Overall I'm happy with the decision, I'll just bust it out tomorrow.

@rockninja_8a is still going for the ground up dream, and liked the looks of my new beta. Best of luck to him!!!

Day 1 in Bishop! I tried Dan Beals line Tiers of Uncertainty 14b/c while @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e practiced the moves on Footprints. Dan Beals line is pretty neato and would probably be the boldest highball in the world if someone bouldered it. Matt sent Footprints no problem after a couple TR laps on the slab.

Then I did the bottom moves of Ambrosia a few times. There is a LOT of chalk on the top, which is really good news. Today it snowed so we're resting but I'm gonna try ambrosia tomorrow.

Video @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

Morgan's first mixed climb!

Zach and I were trying to remember the last time we ice climbed. I think it was 4 years ago now.

@zachi.watson

Last year in bishop we had awful conditions. Several days of the trip were lost to snow or sandstorms. Most days we did climb were still too cold, like below 5 degrees after windchill.

On most of my attempts on Ambrosia, my fingers were numbed out cold for the hard move after the hueco. The weather looks MUCH better right now. Hopefully it holds up for my trip which is coming up so fast, leaving on Dec 22.

I know now that I trained crimps too much and endurance too little. I've been training super hard lately, this year I think it will come together.
Video @eric.sethna

Looking through photos of the Red Rock trip, I realized I forgot about this disgusting open project to the right of Wet Dream.
It starts on an extremely painful left hand fingerlock and right hand crimp. Then the only move that matters is a dunk to another finglerlock. I blew it on the top out which is probably only V4... I didn't really know where I was going and slipped right off. Never had the energy to stick the dunk again for that juicy FA. I was going to name it Slam Bam Fingerjam, and it's V12 or V13.

The skin that I mangled from the left hand start hold still hasn't fully healed. To use the hold I put my pointer and ring finger in as deep as I could, then forced my middle finger in on top to lock everything in place.

Rootin Tootin Cowboy Shootin - V13.
This is climb 98 in the First Creek area. It is listed as a highball project so this is probably a first ascent! I couldn't find any online content from Nalle or others on the climb.

The sequence is strangely similar to the crux of Disbelief at Acephale. I've been training this exact move for months. Lock off to a high left handed gaston, then do a move that makes no sense. I stabbed to another gaston up high with only my thumb, and mashed my pointer finger in it once I stuck it. Getting the foot up was also brutal. The top out from there is still about V6.
While I think it's one of the hardest boulders I've done, I also sent it really fast. So I'm not sure about the V13 grade but I think it's right.

Video @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

Topping out Blockwall - V3, one of my favourites from the trip. Today I chalked up a highball project near The Nest and will try to bust it out on the last day of our trip.

Photo @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

Fountainhead - V9

Matt and I are trashed. This was day 6 climbing in a row. Tomorrow we will "rest" and hike to First Creek boulders to explore the area. The guidebook lists several highball projects so I will probably rappel down something and prep a new line for saturday.

I had heard people had blown it off the Meadowlark Lemon slab and I thought maybe I should try it once. But was like nahhhh I'll be fine. I almost blew it on every move to the lip but managed a send of the stand start.
Even though the left hand edge was chipped it's still pretty damn hard. Maybe still V13, not sure. The sit won't go this trip, not enough time.

Video @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

Edit: Turns out this was not an FA and is named "Blockwall." Still the line is incredible, really nice seams and pockets the whole way. Had a blast on it.

Video @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e

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