miles_adamson miles_adamson

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Miles Adamson  100% Killabee approved

"I'm going LEFT hand??" Some footage I got last visit of top dog @marceveleigh checking out the crux of the University Wall project.

Belay yelling brought to you by @sceveleigh

This was the treehouse that I lived in for the summer. Although it's more of a platform with a tent than a complete structure. It's outside any provincial/national parks but still a short drive from Canmore.

The platform was engineered by myself and the @k_i_l_l_a_b_e_e. It bridges 4 trees and has a support column in the middle. It comfortably held 6 people up on Canada day, and likely supports well over 2000lbs.
The video doesn't do the height or zipline justice, the platform is 30ft up and the zipline is terrifying. When setting up the ropes I slipped climbing a tree and gored my chest on a broken branch. It scarred pretty badly.

The crux of the project at the University Wall is a huge stab to a pocket, with really poor feet. On this go I went to the top, so it's down to 2 hangs. One from the opening boulder, one on this crux.

Pretty steady progress but the weather is looking worse and worse. There might not be another weekend in the near future to get out there again.

Video @marceveleigh

I found some beta on the blank wall towards the Gateway, named the University Wall. Some of the routes were sent around 13b, others are projects like the gold streak I've been trying which feels like 14c.

The streak starts with a very thin boulder and has several more cruxes. It's still pretty sustained to the top too. In this shot I do the sequence which connects the opening boulder into the real crux, which it felt like I had no hope of doing and took. I have only stuck the move off the hang so far.

Video @marceveleigh

So stoked that @blocsclimbing has announced their opening date of September 21st! Tonight I'm forerunning some of the harder stuff I set, like this big red. I mayyy have dabbed. There are quite a few problems V10 and up!

Earlier in the week I also helped design the program for the junior team with Kristine. However I couldn't commit to being in Edmonton long enough to coach with her.

After 30 a minute hike towards the Gateway, there is a very blank vertical cliff. The starts of the routes are crazy hard, then some even become a touch overhanging and remain just as blank.

On the way back, we tried to just boulder to the first bolt of one of the lines unsuccessfully.

Any info on the area would be appreciated, the cliff is amazing and could clearly house multiple routes 5.14 or harder.

Video @sceveleigh

Had a great day at The Gateway with @sceveleigh and @marceveleigh. It was my first trip there and tried some of their projects with them. The main one Scott has been trying for a good while, and he made the crux move look chill without being even fully warm.

I was like ya I can do that. No I could not do that. Having also shut down other strong climbers in the past, the rig is legit, really fun and easily V13. It will be cool to see Scott throw it down one day. He is the closest by far, having done the crux move a good amount of times and just needs a bit more to do it from the start.

Ending the season on a high note, I finally completed the thumbdercling crux on the project I bolted at Louise! It had been about 10 days no success. I linked the opening boulder into this crux as well, and felt like it could go all in a row.

Some small adjustments in beta and body position have made all the difference. First, i put my right foot on with my heel twisted further right than in the photo. This opens my hips up a bit and allows me to put my left foot on after stabbing out right. The left foot is then enough to re-adjust the thumb, putting my body a couple inches further right. Popping to the last crimp with my body further right reduces the swing and I stuck it. Previously the move was almost a dyno, and the swing felt impossible to hold.

Sprained my ankle Thursday but it's not that bad

p.s. where are all the downclimb jugs???

This is the thumbdercling move on my Lake Louise project. I have tried it for 5 days now and still have never stuck the move. It's getting super close, just a touch too far away from the next edge to pull up and control the swing.

Thanks so much to Morgan for jugging up to take this video for me!

Just bought a new rack

@mlow3819 gave the "triple zero" monkey fist an unprecedented 11 out of 10.

Assuming a monkey fist lowers the strength by 50% of the cords rating, it could theoretically hold a take for someone <70lbs

Wonder Valley Boulders: Other Climbs

1. Scott inspecting a highball arete, which he later sent and named Bonsai V6

2. Matt doing big boi beta on his V7 highball, Huck it to the Bucket

3. Marc topping out Matt's V9 roof problem, which he named Jocks in Crocs

4. Marc taking a breather on top of Jocks in Crocs

5. Zach on the steep crux of my V10, Spooked


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