When I first moved to California I lived in Santa Cruz during the summers playing bass at a camp in the redwoods above town. During the day I would drive down to Pleasure Point and try to surf the 80's fish I found in the weeds next to the house I was staying in. One of the first days out a guy with an eye patch walked past me carrying a huge single fin longboard and said "learning how to surf?" I said I was. "Careful, it'll change your world." That guy was Jack O'Neil, the inventor of the wetsuit, legendary waterman, sailor, aviator and conservationist. These days there aren't as many characters like Jack around. The ones who shine out in the stories of our lives. RIP Jack. Thanks for making the world a little more magical, and also for making it so we can surf all year.