Repost: Sage words from @adrianballinger on the true gravity of making the best decisions during a high-altitude climb:
As many climbers attempt their #Everest summit right now (hundreds are expected on the South Side, a few dozen on the North), in what appears to me to be a quite marginal (read shitty) summit window, I worry. I worry for clients who perhaps do not have the experience to make their own conservative decisions when conditions become too much. And I especially worry for High Altitude Workers (Sherpa and other ethnic groups) like this one. .
Our Sherpa have extensive training (thanks to @khumbuclimbingcenter), cutting edge equipment (thanks to @eddiebauer), solid leadership (thanks to @alpenglowexpeditions) and carry a max of 40lbs (18kg) to ensure they can move quickly and nimbly in the mountains. But this is unfortunately not the standard. With no regulation of HAW's on Everest, you often see inexperienced workers with inadequate equipment helping climbers that can't make the hard decisions up high. This is what leads to unnecessary accidents, on both sides of the mountain. .
Here's hoping for conservative decision-making, and a safe 72 to 96 hours.