Watching one my favorite shows @roadkillshow on Velocity Channel brought me such warmth and comfort because they towed a Toyota Prius with an AMC Gremlin to a death by tank smashing!! So Good! @davidfreiburger@finnegan999 you guys rule!! I know it’s an old episode but I had to post it.
A Good friend of mine encouraged me to put these photos on my wall. They all used to sit in my closet so I figured why not. @hanger18 actually saved the red shirt quicksilver poster from the dumpster behind South Coast Wind-n-Sea and for that I am very grateful. The majority of my surfing career is on this wall. I have to admit when I stepped back and looked at everything and took it all in I had a sobering moment. Mostly I felt extremely grateful. The experiences I’ve had and the friends I’ve made are irreplaceable. Regrettably my closest friends believed in me more that I believed in myself and the truth is I could’ve gone much further. Professional surfing is not a job it is a privilege. You must treat it like a job to be successful but you should never see it as a job. I thank God for giving me this incredible gift of surfing and all that came along with it.