A few days ago, I had the pleasure to meet Pilou Ducalme, the local legend of Guethary.
A diehard big wave rider, a true soul surfer.
For me, it was a real privilege to ask him about this discipline, its risks and the required involvement.
He told me about some of the waves he surfed (Jaws, Nazare, Mavericks...), about his love not only for surfing, but also for the ocean as a whole, what it represents for him, and how he’s turning it into its very own therapy.
The simplicity of this man and his humility have confirmed my thought regarding the big wave riders subject : they’re not reckless, nor crazy.
They’re normal people accomplishing something extraordinary, by pure pleasure of the slide, the beauty of those few seconds spent on these « water monsters », the adrenaline that these short moments provide and the joy felt when they get to surf the « beast » of the series.
Just normal people aware of the danger, plus a big mind and ambition (« Essential if you want to surf big waves ! » like he says) .
Thanks again to you Pilou